How to install DJI Ground Station in a Phantom 2

Not long ago, DJI release iPad Ground Station, an iPad app and hardware combination that allows Phantoms and other DJI-powered multicopters to fly autonomous missions using waypoints. iPad Ground Station is a free app in the Apple App Store, but it requires that you purchase and install 2.4G Bluetooth Data Link. This post is specifically about installing Data Link into a Phantom 2.

It can be hard to imagine how all these parts work together. Data Link has actually been an existing product for some time, but it was previously used with Windows-based ground station software, and normally on higher-end multicopters like the S800. Adding an iPad Ground Station app makes the whole package much easier to use, even on Phantoms, with which dedicated ground stations aren’t the norm. Ground Station is described as a Bluetooth solution… so how does iPad use Bluetooth to talk to your Phantom 2 over such long distances? Ground Station package includes both “ground” and “air” ends, and those are what actually talk to each other. The iPad does use Bluetooth, but talks only to a Bluetooth CAN BUS adapter that plugs into the ground end (included in the Data Link package). Your iPad doesn’t have to try to talk to the multicopter, directly; instead, it only needs to talk to the ground end of the system, which uses its more-powerful transceiver to talk to the air end, which is installed in the Phantom.

First, let’s look at what comes with 2.4G Data Link:

Do you see that thing on the right? It’s a CD. I’m a Mac person, and I basically haven’t touched a CD in years. But it comes with one, and you need a CD player to get to the (Windows-only) software. This only matters if you ever plan on using a Windows computer to run Ground Station. After having used the iPad app, I don’t think I ever will touch the Windows version.

I’m actually going to install both 2.4G Data Link (air end) and iOSD mini into my Phantom 2. The Phantom was previously configured with a Zenmuse H3-3D 3-axis gimbal for GoPro and a Boscam TS353 5.8Ghz FPV transmitter, both of which I will keep on the bird.

First, upgrade the firmware on your 2.4G Data Link using the software provided on the DJI website. There are three different parts to be updated: Ground End (the bigger one), Air End (the smaller one), and BTU Bluetooth adapter (the smallest one). Plug BTU into Ground End using the CAN BUS port, and connect to your computer via USB so you can update the Ground End and BTU. The software is Windows only, so if you are a Mac person, you’ll need to run Parallels or equivalent to make this work.

Next, unplug BTU and plug the Air End into the Ground End using the included CAN BUS cable (still connected to a computer via USB). This will allow you to update the Air End’s firmware.

Since I am installing the Air End and miniOSD inside the Phantom shell, I used electrical tape to cover the bottom of the casings to make sure they won’t short anything out when crammed in there.

Some of my friends recommend removing the DJI casings for both of these boxes to save on weight. They have had no problems with interference, and claim that it works well. If you decide to do this (I probably will), be sure to use electrical tape or heat shrink to isolate the naked boards to prevent shorts and other problems.

The ground end of the 2.4G Data Link can be powered by USB or DC input. It comes with a power cable that terminates in bare wires. I soldered on a male XT60 connector in order to use standard Phantom batteries for power.

This is the Phantom 2’s CAN BUS port, which is found on one of the landing struts:

I want to move this into the Phantom shell. First, unplug the cable. Then, unscrew the CAN BUS plug adapter and remove it.

Pull the CAN BUS cable up through the hole in the bottom of the Phantom by the landing strut and reconnect the CAN BUS plug adapter. I recommend wrapping the plug adapter in electrical tape, since it has surface elements that might be conductive.

Now that the CAN BUS cable has been pulled inside of the Phantom shell, you can visualize how it will be connected. Connect the iOSD mini to the CAN BUS cable adapter, and the 2.5 Data Link Ground End into the iOSD mini. You can’t put the 2.4G Data Link in the middle because it only has 1 CAN BUS port.

This was what my original Phantom 2 looked like, on the bottom.

I had wired up an FPV transmitter via the 4 wires that come out of a stock Phantom 2 (for power, and video form the GoPro). iOSD mini adds an on-screen display to your video, but it can only do that if you run video through it. That means you have to place iOSD mini between the Phantom’s video output (which comes from the GoPro, through the HERO bus and out the supplied cable that comes out of the Phantom) and the FPV transmitter. You need to separate the two video wires and pull them back into the Phantom 2 shell. The two video wires are yellow and brown (from the Phantom).

Above, you can see the yellow and brown wires pulled back up into the Phantom (soldered to a JST connector). I like to put connectors between everything so I can remove accessories when I need to move them to another Phantom. Note that these wires are, by default, stuck to the other 2 wires (red and brown, which carry power). You have to separate them and leave the power cables running out of the shell. You want power (red and brown) to run straight to the FPV transmitter. 

There is a 4-pin cable that comes with the iOSD mini. Yellow and brown carry video in, and orange and brown carry video out. Because you need to run video through iOSD mini, you want to connect video in to the Phantom’s video out (which comes from the GoPro), and video out to the transmitter. Note that yellow and brown from iOSD mini match yellow and brown from the Phantom. So match up the colors, and you’re good to go. Here, I’ve split the 4 wires into 2 groups of 2.

Here is the final wiring configuration. Connect everything up, and you’re good to go!

Video out from the Phantom 2 (yellow and brown) has been pulled back up into the Phantom 2’s shell and soldered to the yellow and brown wires that go into iOSD mini (video in). Orange and brown from iOSD mini has been routed back through the original hole in the Phantom’s shell and connected to video in on my Boscam transmitter. The CAN BUS wire has been pulled into the shell and is connected to iOSD mini (via the CAN BUS adapter), which is, in turn, connected to the air end of 2.4G Data Link.

Visualize how you’d like to stuff the components into the shell. This is how I did it, although it was an *extremely* tight fit.

Note that I’ve separated the two 2.5G Data Link antennae and have them positioned at a 90º angle from each other. I ran the antennae out the bottom exhaust vents in two of the Phantom arms (the ones around the battery, in the back), and have taped them in place.

Here is a closer look at how I positioned the components:

The CAN BUS wire and adapter have been put in the vertical area at the very front of the Phantom 2. Be sure that your placement does not interfere with the battery, which takes up almost all of the lower part of the shell volume.

The bottom of the Phantom 2 looks basically the same as before install:

Here is the first power-on test—it’s working!

The components in the picture that weren’t mentioned before are: Black Pearl 7" integrated monitor w/5.8Ghz diversity receiver and battery; Rave Aerial Video monitor mount; iPad Mini Retina; Make Magazine neck strap; 3-hole transmitter neck strap balancer.

The field test was a success! Flight time:

30% battery @ 13:31
15% battery @ 16:27

Update: I was reminded by someone that there is a nifty product called the FPV Hub that allows you to connect all of this stuff up without soldering. You need to use DJI’s AVL58 transmitter, though, and it is much heavier than third-party transmitters are.

Update 2:

I removed the outer casings on the iOSD mini and 2.4G Data Link (air end) and wrapped them in tape. In addition to weight savings, it is now easy to close the Phantom shell now with the units inside.

The naked 2.4G Data Link (left) and iOSD mini (right).

Both components in the Phantom shell. Removing the casings saved 16.7 g, or 0.59 oz.

Update 3:

Here’s the video! (or part of it, anyway)

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QFB77UrwB8?rel=0]