ADS 400Q FPV quadcopter build
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ADS 400Q quadcopter with GoPro and FPV transmitter
My first quadcopter build from scratch was a build around the Aerial Design Services 400-Q frame (ADS 400Q).
The 400Q is similar to other H-frames in that it:
- has plenty of space to mount batteries, cameras, transmitters, and more
- allows easy center of gravity tweaking by sliding the battery back and forth
- is easily repairable
- is proven for use in first-person-view (FPV) applications
My particular build uses:
- MT2216 KV100 motors
- 4S 3300 mAh Turnigy NanoTech LiPo battery
- RCTimer SK-30A SimonK Firmware ESC
- RCTimer 8" CF balanced props
- DJI NAZA-M autopilot with GPS
- Spektrum AR8000 receiver
- Spektrum TM1000 telemetry module for voltage
- ImmersionRC 600 mAh 5.8 Ghz FPV transmitter
- 5.8 Ghz skew planar antenna
My radio is a Spektrum DX8.
When I started the build, I had no idea what I was doing. There is a wonderful build thread over at RCGroups, and I stuck the build pictures in Evernote and referred to them when building my own. Since I got so much out of the build pictures over there, I wanted to give back to the community by posting my own build pictures. If you are a beginner, I hope this helps!
Here’s what I did, in order:
- Order a bunch of tiny connectors, wires, and soldering equipment. I wrote up a connectors and plugs guide, which might be interesting.
- Solder a male XT-60 pigtail onto the power distribution board (PDB). This brings power from your battery to the PDB.
- Solder the 4 ESCs onto the PDB. The PDB brings power from the battery to your ESCs.
- Solder 2 female JST pigtails onto the PDB. You can use this to power your FPV system, a gimbal, or anything else you want to put on the frame.
- Lightly assemble the motor arms and “dirty” frame (bottom part of the frame). Don’t screw things in, yet, because you will probably have to pull the top off a few times. I used zip ties.
- De-solder, cut, and re-solder bullet connectors onto the motors. The wires that come with these particular motors are way too long.
- Attach the motors. Flip the top plate on the motor arms if your wires come out to the side. I made this mistake and had to do a lot of disassembly to get it right, when I was nearly done.
- When the dirty part of the frame seems really solid, screw it together.
- Assemble the “clean” part of the frame and mount autopilot and receiver. I used 3M double-sided foam tape (came with my receiver). Note: in the picture(s) in the gallery, the satellite receiver of the Spektrum AR8000 is mounted with its antennae parallel to the ground. After receiving feedback from others, I rotated it 90º (antennae perpendicular to the ground). The main AR8000 antenna remained parallel to the ground because they are supposed to be orthogonal to each other.
- If you have an older frame, it may not quite be wide enough to accept 42-43mm LiPo batteries. I had to dremel screw holes a bit to widen the opening in the back (push out the standoffs just a bit).
- Screw “clean” part of the frame together.
- Balance props.
- Optional: add camera and FPV hardware.
- Test flight!
- If it flies well, apply Loctite or equivalent to every screw.
Here are a bunch of pictures I took during the build process and first couple of flights. Next steps: I will add OSD to the video feed, including GPS, voltage, and altitude telemetry.
Good luck with your builds! I learned a lot during this one.