SOLOMON ISLANDS, AUG 2004 - LOCAL VILLAGES
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August 18, 2004 - Telina Village Visit

We stern-tied to the shoreline last night at Telina Village and were greeted by a gaggle of singing children, who congregated at the end of the "pier" under a large tree to serenade us. A group of us went out on the back deck of the boat to take some photographs and discovered that the use of flash would illicit screams of excitement accompanied by vigorous hand-waving for the next photo. The evening's welcome was marred only by a local motor boat filled with adolescent males, who sped on by while yelling obscenities at us.


kids at telina village

In the morning we boarded our tinnies for a 30-second ride to the pier, where the entire village was waiting. Little children and a few women sat closest to the end of the pier holding flowers and posing for photographs, while most of the men sat in stations behind their carved wares along the main path. There is a carver here named "John Wayne" here, who is mentioned in the Lonely Planet book on the Solomons; local carving skill is famous around the world, and some of the tables, bowls, and statuettes that were out on display were really beautiful, intricately inlayed with rosewood, ebony, and nautilus shell. I bought a small nguzunguzu (a canoe figurehead, but in miniature) from a carver named Himes -- it is a small model of what would be positioned at the bow of a war canoe. A stylized head with a bird underneath it symbolizes a peaceful approach, and one with a skull underneath signals an aggressive intent..


Me, with carver Himes
There is an accepted practice for bargaining here in the Solomons. In a quiet, private voice, the carver will tell you the price of the product. After thinking for awhile, you ask him for his second price, which he will then share with you. You may then ask for his best price, or offer something a bit under the second price, sometimes accompanied by a small item of barter. I was unable to get Himes to budge very much from his best price, which was about 75% of the original price, but he did express interest in trading for shorts, a t-shirt, and alkaline batteries. I've heard stories about bartering for things in Papua New Guinea; some of the tribes there don't have a use for money, so items are traded instead. Monty told a story about someone who traded two cigarettes for a large carving!



The price of carvings in the local villages is not low, even when compared to shops selling the same things in Honiara. Granted, you might not be able to find the same pieces, but we found that we weren't given discounted prices even when buying things directly from the source. The locals do like to barter, however. Specifically, we were asked for AA and D batteries, cargo shorts, t-shirts, watches, dive masks (very sought after), and fins.

Other village visits: Mbili Village (Aug 19), Peava Village (Aug 20)

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Solomon Islands 2004
- Solomons Home
- Photographic Notes
- Best of: Photos
- Leave a Message!

Topside
- Getting There: Brisbane
- The Bilikiki and Staff
- The Passengers
- Local Villages (Aug 18)

Diving: Florida Islands
- Tanavula Point (Aug 13)
- Kovohika Island (Aug 13,15)
- Velvia Reef (Aug 13)
- Anuha Island (Aug 14)
- Tulagi-Switzer (Aug 14,15)
- Njanjalakalonga (Aug 15)
- Nembelau Rock (Aug 15)

Diving: Russell Islands
- Karumolun Point (Aug 16)
- Leru Cut (Aug 16)
- Bat Cave (Aug 16)
- N/E Mane (Aug 16)
- Rainbow Reef (Aug 23)
- Wreck of the Ann (Aug 23)
- White Beach (Aug 23)

Diving: Marovo Lagoon
- Kokoana Passage (Aug 17)
- Lumalihie Passage (Aug 18)
- Lagoon Point (Aug 20)
- Mbulo Island Canyons (Aug 20)
- Wickham Island (Aug 21)

Diving: Mary Island
- Barracuda Point (Aug 22)

Photos by Subject
- Clownfish/Anemones
- (links coming soon!)

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